Unconventional and eccentric yet haunting and often sublime, the wines of Château Rayas defy any reasonable categorisation. The cellars of the property near the town of Courthézon are notoriously difficult to find – no gleaming signboards to point the way - and the absence of pomp on eventual arrival mirrors the somewhat agricultural winemaking equipment installed. Yet journalists fortunate enough to be admitted have often raved over the purity and freshness of the wines that they taste, wines that seem to defy the primitive environment in which they are created.
The estate’s history began in 1880 when Albert Reynaud acquired a dozen hectares of woodlands, vines and other crops known as Rayas and commenced a new career in viticulture. This was at the time of the Phylloxera calamity in France, and the sandy nature of some of the tracts may have served as protection from the louse. Jacques passed the baton to his son Louis in 1920. Louis prospered and was able to enlarge the estate with the purchase of two further properties, the 40 hectare Château de Tours in nearby Sarrians in 1938 and Château de Fonsalette (12 hectares), just north of Orange, in 1945.
Both additions were deemed as Côtes du Rhône at the time of purchase. Château de Tours encompasses a parcel of land that was subsequently upgraded as Vacqueyras; and Fonsalette’s vines were later classified as Côtes du Rhône-Villages (Massif d’Uchaux) though this appellation has not been employed on labels to date.
The estate was passed to Albert’s two sons Jacques and Bertrand on his death in 1978, Jacques taking Rayas and Fonsalette and Bertrand Tours.
Jacques Reynaud died in 1997 however despite barely two decades in charge he left an indelible legacy – numerous unforgettable vintages of Rayas, a one-of-a-kind modus operandi in both vineyard and cellar and, on account of his other-worldly personality, an air of insularity and uncommunicativeness, impervious to trends, fashions, technology and even hand-written requests to visit. An apocryphal anecdote tells of a well-known UK wine buyer turning up for a pre-arranged appointment to find no answer at the cellar door. On driving away he claims to have spotted a figure emerging from a nearby ditch who bore a close likeness to Monsieur Reynaud.
With no direct heir, Jacques’ widow passed the estate to his nephew, Emmanuel, son of Bertrand, thus conjoining once again the estates of Rayas and Château de Tours. Emmanuel's early Rayas vintages evidenced his lack of experience however he was responsible for the very good 98 (a Grenache vintage) and 2001, and the spectacular 2005 and 2007. 2009, 2010, 2015, 2016 and 2017 are right back on top form.
Rayas rouge is unusual for a châteauneuf-du-pape being made entirely (or almost) from Grenache. The soil is sandy, again unusual in the appellation and has no galets (round pudding stones) to provide protection against the summer heat and drought. Its vines are however surrounded by pine trees that defend against the mistral wind – an evident micro-climate. Grapes are harvested by hand, picked as late as possible and are femented even now in concrete tanks. Ageing is in large (very) old oak barrels. Convention says that this is not the right environment to make fine wine, yet some sort of magic is at work and convention is confounded.
Without the presence of the rugged Mourvèdre grape, or the strongly flavoured Syrah, Rayas is lighter than many neighbouring wines, and when mature can exhibit Pinot Noir-like opening notes. Grenache ferments easily and the wine usually brings a liqueur note to the mid palate, followed by garrigue spices and herbs. There have been runs of great years but also the occasional misfire. Rayas goes its own way without winemaking consultants or gurus. It is truly a one-of-a kind.
The wines of Château Rayas
Château Rayas, Châteauneuf-du-Pape: 13ha in three parcels, Le Levant, Le Couchant and Le Coeur. 100% Grenache (red) and 50% Grenache/50% Clairette (white)
Pignan, Châteauneuf du Pape: approximately 20% of Rayas production, usually from a discrete plot
Château Fonsalette, Côtes du Rhône: 12ha. 50% Grenache/35% Cinsault/15% Syrah (red) and 80% Grenache/10% Clairette/10%Marsanne (white)
La Pialade, Côtes du Rhône: 80% Grenache/15% Cinsault/5% Syrah. Effectively a second wine of Fonsalette with young vine fruit from Rayas
All the above are vinified and bottled at Château Rayas
The wines of Château de Tours, 40ha approx.
Château de Tours, Vacqueyras. 80% Grenache/20% Syrah
Château de Tours, Côtes du Rhône. 65% Grenache/20% Syrah/15% Cinsault (red) and 100% Grenache (white)
Domaine des Tours, Vin de Pays de Vaucluse. (red and white)
Parisy, Vin de Table. (rosé only)