With owned vineyards totalling over 15 hectares, of which more than half are Grand Cru, it is no surprise that Domaine Armand Rousseau is a must-visit address for merchants, collectors and critics alike in search of some of the most sublime expressions of Pinot Noir to be found.
Armand Rousseau was born into a family heavily involved in the Burgundian wine trade and on reaching the age of majority he inherited plots of land that were to be the foundations of the estate. Marriage in 1909 saw the creation of his eponymous domaine, which was located in a modest (at the time) house and cellar beside the 13th century église in the town of Gevrey-Chambertin. The impressive wrought-iron gates and stone gate-posts came later.
The domaine’s commercial success however is largely down to his son Charles Rousseau, who took over the reins following Armand’s premature death in a car accident while returning from ‘la chasse’ in 1959. Over the next 40 years Charles doubled the size of the domaine’s vineyards, acquiring parcels of Clos de Bèze, the Clos des Ruchottes and Chambertin that today form a regal family of Côte de Nuits Grands Crus. His mastery of both English and German languages enabled him to develop sales into the UK, Europe and beyond, pioneering a direct distribution model that was subsequently widely copied. Yet his father Armand was also a pioneer, introducing domaine bottling and fostering international exports, appointing Frederick Wildman as his US distributor as early as the 1930s.
Until third generation Eric Rousseau assumed control in the 2000s, the amiable, articulate Charles was the architect of the rise of reputation of Domaine Rousseau, managing work in the vineyards and cellar but also making (often difficult) decisions over allocations. Every merchant across the world must have attempted to gain access to the small office where Charles was often to be found, more than likely with a cigarette in hand.
Rousseau wines offer a startling lucidity in youth, and usually a steely frame, developing both colour and captivating flavour and perfume as they age. Tasting in the cellar with Charles was always memorable, not least because he himself religiously used only his tastevin, the dimpled, saucer-shaped silver tasting cup traditional to the region. He explained that with very young wines he was primarily concerned with clarity and the quality of tannins, not with the bouquet. The cigarettes may have had a bearing.
I recall my first visit with colleagues in the early 90s, where the village wine was tasted first, then the premier crus and onwards up the ladder of the grands crus. All were magnificent of course. Then to the pinnacle, the barrel containing Chambertin, where our anticipation had climbed to 11. Rousseau poured the samples and stood back, waiting for the not unreasonable admiration. I for one could taste almost nothing and found it difficult to make any sensible comment. I was baffled and sensed the mood darkening. We walked outside, said our goodbyes and climbed into our car. It was only when a mile down the road that the taste of the wine made itself known, incrementally filling my mouth with unforgettably beguiling flavours. This was the quality of Chambertin.
Eric Rousseau mostly followed tradition in the cellars – the making of Burgundy is in essence very straightforward - but brought modern thinking to the practise of viticulture. Green harvesting and destemming were in and the use of insecticides and other chemical treatments were out. The domaine has not been certified organic but the bond between grower and the soil is very clear.
Eric’s daughter Cyrielle, who had experienced harvests in Oregon and in the Southern Hemisphere, joined the team in 2014, initially in the office but increasingly in the cellar and vineyards. Her presence required a modification to the wording on the labels – from vintage 2013 Domaine Armand Rousseau Père & Fils became Domaine Armand Rousseau tout court.
The pinnacle of the Domaine’s holdings are Chambertin and Chambertin Clos de Bèze, both distinguished by their gold-coloured capsules with white bands. History states that Clos de Bèze came first, gifted to the Abbey of Bèze by the Duke of Burgundy in the 7th century. Monks grew crops but also planted vines for wine. In the 13th century a monsieur Bertin saw the potential of the wine and bought the neighbouring field to make his own. Thus, according to legend, was christened ‘champs-Bertin’, subsequently Chambertin. Some time later the reputation of this wine led to merchants purloining M Bertin’s ‘brand’ for use with the neighbouring vineyard, hence Chambertin Clos de Bèze.
Labels as well as capsules are differentiated. Clos des Ruchottes and Clos St Jacques are adorned with sketches of the respective vineyards; and Chambertin has its own ornate label and heraldic scripts together with a ‘crown’ neck device guaranteeing vineyard origin, the latter a relic from pre AOC days.
Vineyard ownership today
Grand Cru
Chambertin – 2.5ha (Rousseau has the largest holding)
Chambertin Clos de Bèze – 1.4 ha
Clos des Ruchottes (a monopole within Ruchottes-Chambertin) – 1ha
Mazis-Chambertin – 0.5ha
Charmes-Chambertin/Mazoyères-Chambertin (both labelled as Charmes) – 1.4ha
Clos de la Roche – 1.5ha
Premier Cru
Gevrey-Chambertin, Clos St. Jacques – 2.2ha
Gevrey-Chamberftin Les Cazetières – 0.7ha
Gevrey-Chambertin Lavaux-St. Jacques – 0.5ha
Plus village Gevrey-Chambertin