The wines of Puligny-Montrachet, Meursault and Corton-Charlemagne have enjoyed global renown for 50 years yet all have witnessed exponential demand growth in the last three decades, with consequential uplift in values and prices. Chassagne-Montrachet and Saint-Aubin have joined this elite group, albeit more recently. It has been, patently, the winemaking skills and personal convictions of individual vignerons that has fueled this interest, attributes personified by Coche-Dury.
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Domaine Coche-Dury
The domaine was founded in 1975 following the marriage of Jean-François Coche to Odile Dury, a fusion of their individual vineyard holdings. Coche was the third generation of his family to grow vines, apprenticed as a teenager to his father Georges. The domaine is centered in Meursault (where 9 hectares are owned), though it also encompasses small parcels of vines in neighbouring Puligny and Volnay, and in Auxey-Duresses and Pernand-Vergelesses to the north and west.
Coche-Dury’s cellars and chais are strikingly modest, located behind an unassuming modern brick-built chalet just off the D974 Route du Vin. For over 40 years Jean-François ran the nine-hectare domaine almost singlehandedly, working in both the vineyards and cellar, receiving visitors only when his labours permitted. On my last visit, the great man was to be found hand-applying labels to bottles and packing an order before our tasting could commence. Since his retirement in 2010, the reins have been in the hands of his son Raphaël and Raphaël's wife, Charline. [Note Until this point the producer was shown on labels as ‘J-F Coche-Dury’. Subsequently the notation became either ‘C&R Coche’ or ‘Coche-Dury’, according to which family entity the sales revenue was allocated.]
Jean-François was far from gregarious and as he spoke almost no English conversation was always brief, though he was happy to pour his wines to trade visitors. Questions were answered with as few words as necessary, leading some visitors to impute greater significance than was perhaps meant. As with many other enigmatic winemakers in the region he appeared not to grasp his global celebrity, nor to have personal insight into the source of his wines’ distinction. His methods were conservative, both in grapegrowing (massale selection - no clones here - ensured yields were modest) and in the cellar (he employed lees contact and extended ageing in oak, and pressing was carried out mechanically rather than pneumatically); and he valued nervosité over ripeness, believing the former was key to the ageworthiness of his wines. Wines are fined but not filtered and can show a fine sediment or sheen after opening. These approaches are far from unique to Coche yet there is no doubting the charisma of the wines once in the glass. Meticulous care and attention play a part, as does scale: ownership of only small plots of each appellation (where vines can be individually tended) is surely a factor in controlling ripening and overall harvest quality.
From the outset the domaine bottled its wines under its own label. Stocks are distributed via agents in Europe, the US and Asia who eke out their tiny allocations to grateful customers. The longevity of the wines is exemplified by the availability of mature vintages in the secondary market. Bottles of Meursault (village) of 25 years, Meursault premier cru of 30 years and Corton-Charlemagne of 35 years can be acquired today. Coche-Dury is renowned for its white wines though a lesser proportion of reds is produced. These are scented and supple but do not have the same cachet. Today some 60,000 bottles (red and white) are produced each year.
The vineyards of Domaine Coche-Dury
Grand Cru (white)
Corton-Charlemagne (0.33ha prior to 2012. 0.88ha subsequently, following the acquisition of two further plots in Le Charlemagne)
Premier Cru (white)
Meursault-Perrières (0.5ha)
Meursault Genevrières (0.21ha)
Meursault Caillerets (0.18ha)
Village (white)
Meursault
Meursault Rougeots
Meursault Chevalières
Meursault Les Vireuils
Puligny-Montrachet Les Enseignères
Other white
Bourgogne Chardonnay
Bourgogne Aligoté
Red wines
Corton Grand Cru
Volnay Premier Cru (blend of Clos de Chênes and Taillepieds)
Pommard Les Vaumuriens (until 2012)
Meursault Rouge
Auxey-Duresses
Monthélie
Bourgogne Pinot Noir