The last twenty years has seen a seismic shift in the market for Chablis. This outpost of Burgundy lies much closer to Sancerre and Pouilly-Fumé than to the Côte d’Or yet prices for its top wines have ascended in line with those of Meursault or Puligny. At the head of the table is Domaine François Raveneau, whose 10 hectares of vines comprise largely Grands and Premiers Crus.
The domaine was founded by François Raveneau in 1948, bring together vineyards that he had previously acquired with those of his wife’s family (Dauvissat). He was joined by his younger son Jean-Marie in 1978 and, following his retirement, his elder son Bernard came on board in 1995. Francois Raveneau passed away in 2000. The estate is largely run today by Isabelle and Maxime - offspring of the two brothers, who are now technically retired.
Low land values in the mid twentieth century provided the opportunity for François to expand the domaine, including plots of Grand Cru vineyards.
Domaine Raveneau is known for its long-lived wines, backward and unyielding in youth but developing a soaring honeyed richness supported by discreet oak. Premiers Crus from a typical vintage unfurl inside a decade but the Grands Crus, of which the epitome is Les Clos, come into their own in 15 or 20 years.
Unlike many in Chablis who today ferment in oak barrels, Raveneau vinifies in steel vessels before ageing the wines, according to vineyard, for up to 18 months in barrels averaging 7-8 years old. A young Raveneau is thus somewhat marked by oak, the elements harmonising during lengthy bottle ageing. Vineyards are managed meticulously and, again untypically, grapes are picked entirely by hand - and earlier than most to ensure adequate acidity is retained for the long course ahead.
Today the market price of a village Chablis from Raveneau is upwards of £200 (Petit Chablis is not far behind); its Premier Crus fetch over £400 and the celebrated Grands Crus rise to over £1000 a bottle – comfortably ahead of the price of any Premier Cru Bordeaux.
Chablis vineyards owned by Domaine Raveneau
Grands Crus
- Le Clos (0.54ha)
- Blanchots (0.6ha)
- Valmur (0.75ha)
Premiers Crus
- Montée de Tonnere (3.20ha)
- Butteaux (1.50ha)
- Forêt (0.60ha)
- Vaillons (0.50ha)
- Montmains (0.35ha)
- Chapelot (o.30ha)
Other Chablis
- Chablis (village) (0.95ha)
- Petit Chablis (since 2014)
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