The five-generation family domaine was founded by Dijon liqueur producer Francois (known as Frédéric) Mugnier in 1863 with the purchase of almost 20ha of vines across Chambolle-Musigny and Nuits-St-Georges, sold by the Marey-Monge family following the phylloxera crisis. In 1899 he acquired the Château de Chambolle-Musigny which became the estate’s address. The vineyards were leased to a Nuits-St-Georges négociant (Maison Faiveley) in 1950 following the economic slump of the 1930s and the aftermath of WW2, and it was only in 1978 that the estate was returned to family ownership. The current director, Frédéric Mugnier, assumed responsibility from his father Jacques- Frédéric in 1984, also the vintage that the Mugnier label first appeared on bottles. Frédéric’s first vintage was 1985.
The domaine today comprises some 14ha of vineyards in Chambolle-Musigny, including a significant holding in Grand Crus Musigny and Bonnes Mares, and in neighbouring Nuits-St-Georges where the jewel is the monopole Clos de la Maréchale. Some of the original vineyards were sold off in the mid-20th century.
Viticulture and winegrowing are guided by the vision of preserving in the wines ‘the purest expression of Nature with minimal interference from technological practices’. A pragmatic approach is applied to the vineyards favouring hard work and preventative measures over chemical treatments – the purpose is not to eradicate pests and diseases but to preserve a rich ecosystem.
What may come across as airy rhetoric is in fact derived from years of observation and clear-headed thinking. Frédéric is not afraid to use synthetics to deal with downy mildew, for example, reasoning that the copper sulphate sprayed onto the vineyards to treat it (including by organic growers) is toxic to the soils and to those that apply it, and it poisons the soils in the long term. He was trained as an oil engineer (his father was a banker more than a winegrower) and later became a part-time airline pilot.
Frédéric eschews the modern practice of sorting grapes as they come in to the winery – an industrial assembly line in his eyes – but aims to teach his pickers what they have to leave out – “anything they would not themselves eat”.
Mugnier owns the second largest plot of Musigny after Comte Georges de Vogué. He releases the wine some six years after his other wines, having been dismayed at seeing them listed in restaurants almost immediately upon purchase. In his view the drinking window for Musigny begins at 10 years from the vintage.
Mugnier released a one-of-a-kind 2016 Chambolle-Musigny 'Trente Deux' to mark Frédéric's 32nd vintage as winemaker - a blend of Grand Cru Musigny with Premier Cru Chambolle.
The 10 ha Clos de la Maréchale vineyard, bought from the Marey-Monge family in 1902, returned to family hands with the 2004 vintage, following the end of the lease to Faiveley. Unusually there is a small plot of Chardonnay within, producing 5 barrels of Nuits-St-Georges Blanc.
Within the timeframe of a single working life (that of Frédéric) Domaine Jacques- Frédéric Mugnier’s reputation has risen so as to become one of the most sought-after producers in Burgundy. The top wines are revered for their delicacy, bright fruit notes and their longevity. Nuance above power, for many the epitome of the best Côte de Nuits.
Vineyard holdings (total approx. 14ha)
Grand Cru
- Musigny 1.14ha
- Bonnes Mares 0.36ha
Premiers Crus
- Nuits-St-Georges Close de la Maréchale 10ha
- Chambolle-Musigny Les Amoureuses 0.53ha
- Chambolle-Musigny Les Fuées 0.71ha
Village
- Chambolle-Musigny 1.33ha
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